Post Treatment of a cross country ski stone grind: What to Do After the Grind
Cross country ski grind post treatment depends on two things: the structure applied and whether a hardening process was completed. Getting this right protects your grind and sets the ski up for peak performance. Skip this step — or rush it — and you risk undoing the work of a quality grind.
Was the Ski Hardened?
If your ski stone grind post treatment includes a hardening process, the follow-up is simple. Re-wax with a blue paraffin, ski it, then re-wax again after each outing. Repeat that cycle consistently to keep the base in top condition.
If the Ski Was Not Hardened
Treatment depends on whether the grind is fine or coarse. Follow the correct ski stone grind post treatment process for your specific grind type below.
Fine Grind Post Treatment
First, brush the ski with a soft steel or bronze brush. Next, apply a wax remover and clean the base thoroughly with Fiberlene. Then saturate the base with a soft paraffin — red — and allow it to cool fully to room temperature.
Set your iron to the appropriate temperature and work quickly. The goal is to melt the wax, not overheat the base. After cooling, use a sharp plexi scraper to remove any wax remaining on the surface. Follow with a soft steel or bronze brush.
Then apply a hard paraffin — blue — and let it cool completely. Re-melt the wax two to three times, allowing full cooling between each pass. Scrape and brush after the final pass. Your ski is now ready to ski. Re-wax after each outing.
Coarse/Sharp Grind Post Treatment
First, brush the ski with a soft steel or bronze brush. Then apply a wax remover and clean the base thoroughly with Fiberlene. Skip the soft paraffin step — go straight to a hard paraffin — blue.
Let the wax cool fully, then re-melt two to three times with full cooling between each pass. Scrape and brush after the final pass. Your ski is ready to ski. Re-wax after each outing.
Iron and Tool Tips for Ski Stone Grind Post Treatment
A quality iron with reliable temperature control is required. I always move the iron from tip to tail at a steady pace — fast enough to melt the wax, slow enough to let it penetrate. I never let the iron pause or rest on the ski base.
For scrapers, always use a sharp plexi scraper. Never use steel on the base. For brushing, follow these guidelines:
- Steel brush — tip to tail only
- Bronze brush — tip to tail; can scrub gently if soft enough
- Nylon or horsehair — can scrub in either direction
Sharp and clean tools matter. A dull scraper drags wax instead of removing it cleanly. Quality brushes move wax out of the structure instead of packing it in.
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